jeudi 18 septembre 2008

Cantines nationales (Verly)

En vérité, nous avons le bonheur de vivre à une époque mémorable, dont on parlera dans la suite des siècles. Ce matin, à la même heure, cinq mille cantines pouvant nourrir chacune mille personnes ont été ouvertes à Paris. C'est une organisation véritablement merveilleuse, pleine de méthode et de simplicité, digne des vertus des anciens Spartiates.
Nous sommes loin du temps où une bourgeoisie sensuelle allait se gorger de nourritures raffinées et dispendieuses au Grand-Hôtel ou au Café Riche et s'enivrer de vins capiteux à 10 ou 15 francs la bouteille. Maintenant, dans notre société socialisée, on ne peut plus gaspiller pour un seul repas de quoi assurer l'existence de toute une honnête famille pendant un mois. Plus de garçons habillés comme des notaires, en habit noir et en cravate blanche, plus de cartes des mets et des vins reliées aussi richement que des missels, plus de vaisselles d'argent, plus de cristaux, plus de nappes à ramages orgueilleux.
Dans nos cantines sociales, tout est réglementé selon la raison jusque dans les plus petits détails, et nul n'y est favorisé aux dépens des autres. Naturellement, on ne peut manger indifféremment dans toutes les cantines, car cela jetterait dans le service des perturbations impossibles à prévoir et il y aurait en quelques heures des cantines totalement dégarnies de provisions, alors que d'autres seraient encore surabondamment fournies. Nos gouvernants sont des hommes d'État trop expérimentés pour n'avoir pas aperçu d'avance et sagement évité cet écueil.
On ne peut manger que dans la cantine où l'on s'est fait inscrire, et pour cette inscription, on a le choix entre les cantines du quartier de son domicile et de celui de son travail. Les déjeuners sont servis de dix heures à midi et demi; les diners, de cinq à huit heures.
Chacun combine le moment de ses repas conformément à ses heures de loisir, qui dépendant naturellement de son genre d'occupation. Malheureusement, c'est seulement le dimanche qu'il m'est permis de manger avec ma femme, comme j'en ai l'habitude depuis vingt-cinq ans, car nos heures de travail sont tout à fait différentes.
- Alors, je ne pourrai plus avaler une seule bouchée! s'est exclamée Louise, quand elle a été instruite de ce contretemps.
- Je le regrette comme toi, chère femme, lui ai-je répondu ; mais il faut déployer de la bonne volonté : car c'est aux socialistes inébranlables dans leur foi, comme nous le sommes, qu'il appartient de donner le bon exemple. Notre illustre Jaurès n'a-t-il pas écrit que l'intensité des satisfactions est en raison directe de leur rareté ?
Je dois expliquer maintenant comment les cantines fonctionnent.
En entrant, on passe devant un guichet occupé par un comptable, auquel on présente son livret. L'employé en détache un coupon d'alimentation et vous remet en échange un numéro, comme aux bureaux d'omnibus. L'administration a eu la bienfaisante pensée de placer des bancs le long des murs, pour que l'on puisse attendre sans fatigue l'appel de son numéro; c'est seulement dans les moments de presse, quand les bancs sont pleins, qu'on attend debout. La cantine est divisée en plusieurs sections correspondant à la couleur des numéros, et chacune a son surveillant chargé d'appeler les tablées à mesure que des vides se produisent.
A l'appel de votre numéro, dans votre série, vous passez au guichet du buffet, où l'on vous remet votre portion, que vous devez porter vous-même à la table qui vous est assignée par un garde social.
Car ce sont les miliciens de la police qui font ici le service d'ordre, et je dois reconnaitre que leur présence est nécessaire, au moins pour les premiers temps. Toute cette organisation méthodique est nouvelle, le public, encore esclave de ses anciennes habitudes, n'y est pas accoutumé, et il ne manque pas de gens qui manquent de patience et de calme.
Mais je dois constater, d'autre part, que les policiers n'apportent pas dans l'accomplissement de leur mission l'urbanité, la cordialité qui s'imposent dans une société vraiment fraternelle. Les nécessités gouvernementales ont fait porter leur nombre à trente mille; ils se sentent devenus indispensables, ils font maintenant les importants et reprennent peu à peu les allures désagréables du régime bourgeois.
La cohue aussi est véritablement trop grande dans les cantines; on sera obligé d'en augmenter le nombre, sinon on n'arrivera pas à servir dans le temps voulu un pareil nombre de consommateurs et il s'ensuivra une perturbation regrettable dans le travail.
Ce n'est pourtant pas la durée du repas qui est cause de ce retard. Cette durée est même trop brève : un quart d'heure. Le garde social, debout, montre en main, derrière chaque rangée de tables, ne fait pas grâce d'une minute; au contraire, je crois qu'il en rogne deux ou trois pour gagner du temps. Et à son signal, il faut, bon gré, mal gré, se lever et céder la place à ceux qui attendent.
Ces places également sont trop étroitement mesurées, et cela nuit à la rapidité de l'opération : on est serré des épaules et des coudes.
Cette gêne a même amené sous mes yeux un incident comique. Le hasard avait amené côte à côte, en face de moi, un ramoneur et un farinier. Or, comme chacun accourt à la cantine au sortir de l'atelier dans le costume de sa profession, le frottement du noir et du blanc produisait sur les deux voisins des bigarrures extraordinaires qui égayaient tout le monde. Le ramoneur en riait de tout son cœur, mais le farinier s'en montrait fort courroucé.
J'ai raconté cela à ma femme, le soir, pour l'amuser un peu et la distraire du chagrin qu'elle éprouve de ne pouvoir partager mon repas comme autrefois.
- Vois-tu, chère amie, cette organisation demande encore certains perfectionnements. Toute machine a besoin d'être réglée avant de fonctionner tout à fait bien, et nous sommes encore dans la période de tâtonnement. Mais ce n'est pas moins une chose qui élève l'âme de penser que, le même jour et à la même heure, toutes les cantines nationales de Paris cuisinent les mêmes mets; que chaque cantine, dans un délai fixe, alimente un nombre de bouche mathématiquement déterminé, et que par cette méthode précise se trouve économisé au profit de la collectivité le temps si follement gaspillé autrefois par la société capitaliste. Cette économie de temps est un des plus grands triomphes de notre organisation socialiste.
Un peu plus tard, comme nous revenions d'une petite promenade du côté des boulevards, nous trouvâmes la maison en émoi : la plupart des portes étaient ouvertes, les corridors, les paliers et même les escaliers garnis de voisins qui discutaient avec âpreté la question des cantines. Nous nous arrêtâmes, Louise et moi, faute de pouvoir gagner notre cinquième, et nous entendîmes une citoyenne du premier, directrice de cuisine d'une des cantines du quartier, répondre à une critique formulée avant notre entrée :
- Eh bien! ce serait du beau gâchis, si on vous écoutait! Des plats variés au choix... Ah bien, oui! Alors les premiers venus auraient les fins morceaux, et les autres, ceux qui lâchent la besogne plus tard, fricoteraient avec les déchets, pas? Et l'égalité, qu'est-ce que vous en faites?
- L'égalité des intestins, oh la la! cria une voix aux étages supérieurs.
- Vous n'avez pas la prétention d'en remontrer aux hommes de science, je suppose? répliqua la directrice. Il est démontré que 700 grammes de pain, 250 de viande, 300 de légumes, haricots, pommes de terre, pois, fèves, choux ou salade sont suffisants à l'entretien quotidien de la force et de la santé de tout individu dans l'état normal...
- Zut! riposta la voix gouailleuse. Y avait à côté de moi un fort de la halle qui avait escamoté sa portion quand je n'étais pas à la moitié de la mienne, et qui claquait encore du bec. Il a demandé un supplément, le flique l'a insulté. J'y ai repassé mon surplus et il est encore parti en suçant son pouce!
Tout le monde s'est mis à rire.
- On ne peut pas baser un raisonnement sérieux sur des exceptions, a fait judicieusement observer un chef de bureau du ministère de l'Intérieur, qui loge au second. Il avait été question tout d'abord de graduer les portions en raison du poids personnel des consommateurs, qu'on aurait inscrit sur leur livret; mais cela aurait entraîné dans le service des complications inouïes, et l'on y a renoncé.
- Vaut mieux faire jeûner les gros; ça les ramènera au poids réglementaire!
Nouveaux rires. Le chef de bureau continua sans relever la plaisanterie :
- De même pour les femmes. On avait proposé de leur attribuer des portions moins fortes qu'aux hommes...
Un charivari de protestations aiguës interrompit l'orateur, qui attendit avec patience et repris, quand le calme fut à peu près rétabli :
- Si vous n'aviez pas tant crié, vous sauriez déjà que le gouvernement a écarté cette idée, comme attentatoire à l'égalité des sexes et en contradiction avec l'égale obligation du travail.
- Ça empêche pas que les femmes et les hommes, c'est pas fichu pareil!
- L'égalité des besoins physiques est une absurdité, clama un citoyen remarquablement obèse, appuyé à la rampe sur le palier du troisième étage. C'est pas ma faute, si j'ai la boulimie. Avec ce qu'ils donnent à la cantine, j'en ai pour ma dent creuse!
- Bon! Je ne sais pas si le régime va vous décharger du superflu de votre margarine, mon gros!
- Citoyen, dit sérieusement le chef de bureau, si vous vous êtes engraissé de la sueur du peuple, comme tant d'autres, dans la société bourgeoise, tant pis pour vous. La collectivité socialiste n'est pas responsable de vos excès. Si, au contraire, votre embonpoint est simplement le résultat d'une disposition naturelle ou d'une existence trop sédentaire, vos huit heures de travail régulier et les exercices auxquels vous pourrez vous livrer pendant vos huit heures de loisir vous débarrasseront de votre infirmité.
- D'ailleurs, ajouta aigrement la directrice, chacun est libre de faire à son domicile des repas supplémentaires, si bon lui semble. Il suffit pour cela d'acheter de la nourriture avec les bons de circulation.
- Et le tabac? On voit bien que vous ne fumez pas, la bonne dame!
- En résumé, conclut la directrice, en méprisant cette apostrophe, l'alimentation est une question de chimie. Il faut un quantum déterminé de matières azotées et de matières non azotées; la science a prononcé et son arrêt a été méthodiquement exécuté. Un point, c'est tout.
- Et vive le pape infaillible!
- Un brevet à l'institutrice!
- On réclame l'émancipation de l'estomac!
- A Chaillot, les affameurs!
- Permettez, permettez, intervint le chef de bureau. Tout cela n'est pas sérieux. Le meilleur, je veux dire le moins mauvais des anciens tyrans de ce pays considérait comme un progrès idéal que chacun pût mettre la poule au pot tous les dimanches...
- Vive Henry IV!
- Qu'est-ce que cela, en comparaison de ce qu'a fait notre admirable gouvernement! Plus de citoyens sans pains, plus de vagabonds sans asile! La marmite bout pour tout le monde, tous les jours, et chacun jouit d'un toit pour abriter sa tête! En face de résultats aussi merveilleux, qui oserait s'arrêter à de misérables critiques de détails basées sur des exceptions individuelles?...
Nous montions notre escalier au fond de la cour que nous entendions encore les éclats de son éloquence.
- Ce fonctionnaire parle sérieusement, dis-je à une femme, et il a des idées très justes.
- Un curé prêche toujours pour sa paroisse, répondit amèrement Louise. Cet homme est satisfait de sa position au ministère, où il ne travaille guère et trouve sans doute des profits; il serait fâché que les choses changeassent, ça se comprend très bien.
Le chagrin persistant de ma pauvre femme m'afflige et arrête l'essor de mon âme au milieu des transformations sublimes qui s'accomplissent autour de nous. Elle est devenue impressionnable à l'excès, et sa nervosité s'accentue tous les jours. Durant nos vingt-cinq années de ménage, nous n'avons pas eu autant de désaccords que depuis la Révolution sociale, et je ne vois s'atténuer cet état d'antagonisme. Ses récriminations n'ont pas cessé depuis l'ouverture des cantines. Hier soir, comme je la voyais plus pâle et plus excitée encore que de coutume :
- N'as-tu besoin de rien? lui demandai-je. Tu sais qu'il y a là, dans l'armoire, du pain et du vin.
- Merci, Joseph. Oui, je vais essayer de tremper une croûte, car je n'en puis plus, j'ai les jambes comme cassées.
- N'as-tu donc pas mangé convenablement au dîner?
- Mangé convenablement, avec cette cuisine de caserne! C'est de la pâtée à chien qu'on fabrique dans ces boites-là. La viande, c'est une pelote de tendons séchés à force d'être cuite, et la sauce, c'est de l'eau sale... Ah! je les connais trop bien, leurs tripotages; quand je lis les "sept plats du jour" de la semaine qu'on affiche le dimanche à la porte des cantines, j'en ai l'estomac retourné. Je vois d'avance ce qu'on nous offrira sous le nom de bouilli du lundi, du navarin du mardi, des escalopes du mercredi, de la raie au beurre noir du jeudi et le reste à l'avenant. J'ai beau me raisonner, mon gosier se ferme, je ne peux plus rien avaler.
- Tu me fais de la peine, ma bonne Louise. Pourtant, combien de fois ne t'ai-je pas entendu te plaindre, sous l'ancien régime, de ne pas savoir où donner de la tête tant la vie devenait chère! Et comme tu étais contente, le dimanche, quand nous allions dîner dans une gargotte de banlieue, parce que, ces jours-là, tu n'avais pas à t'occuper de la cuisine!
- Eh bien! maintenant, je donnerais la moitié des années qui me restent pour retourner à ce temps-là.
Chaque jour nous avons de ces algarades. Je me dis bien, en mon pardedans, que c'est l'habitude des femmes de se tourmenter comme à plaisir et de trouver toujours à reprendre dans les choses qu'elles ne font pas elles-mêmes; je n'en suis pas moins inquiet et attristé.
J'espère que, quand elle aura vu seulement une fois les enfants et le grand-père dans leurs établissements, - car jusqu'à présent, par mesure d'ordre, on n'a pas autorisé les visites;- quand elle aura constaté combien ils sont bien portants, heureux et gais, elle recouvrira la paix de l'âme et reprendra sa bravoure de caractère, qui jadis ne l'abandonnait jamais, même dans les moments difficiles que nous avons eus à traverser.

Hippolyte Verly, in Les socialistes au pouvoir

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